Understanding Clipper Guard Numbers: The Complete Guide
You sit down in the chair. Your barber asks what you want. The guy next to you says "give me a 2 on the sides" like he's been speaking this language his whole life.
Meanwhile, you're pointing at a picture on your phone hoping for the best.
Here's the thing — clipper guard numbers aren't complicated. They're just a measurement system. Each number corresponds to a specific hair length, and once you understand the chart, you'll communicate with your barber like you've been doing it for years.
Let's break it down.
What Are Clipper Guard Numbers?
Clipper guards are the plastic or metal attachments that snap onto hair clippers. Each guard has a number, and that number tells you exactly how much hair gets left behind after the cut. Higher number, longer hair. Lower number, shorter hair. That's really it.
The numbering system is standardized across most professional clipper brands, so a "number 2" means roughly the same thing whether your barber uses Wahl, Andis, or BaByliss.
The Clipper Guard Chart
Bookmark this. Screenshot it. Save it on your phone. This is the reference you'll come back to.
| Guard # | Length (inches) | Length (mm) | What It Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 (no guard) | 1/16" | 1.5mm | Nearly bald, stubble only |
| 0.5 | 1/16" | 1.5mm | Very short stubble |
| 1 | 1/8" | 3mm | Very short, scalp visible |
| 1.5 | 3/16" | 4.5mm | Short, some scalp showing |
| 2 | 1/4" | 6mm | Short, minimal scalp visible |
| 3 | 3/8" | 10mm | Medium-short, clean look |
| 4 | 1/2" | 13mm | Medium length |
| 5 | 5/8" | 16mm | Medium-long |
| 6 | 3/4" | 19mm | Long for clippers |
| 7 | 7/8" | 22mm | Very long |
| 8 | 1" | 25mm | Longest standard guard |
The quick version: Guards 1-2 are short and tight. Guards 3-4 are the sweet spot for most guys. Guards 5-8 are on the longer side and usually reserved for the top or all-over cuts.
How Guards Are Used in Fades
A fade isn't just one guard length — it's a blend between multiple lengths. That's where your barber's skill really shows up.
Here's how it works. Say you ask for a "0 to 2 fade." Your barber starts with no guard at the very bottom (near the neck and ears), then gradually transitions up to a number 2 higher on the head. The result is a seamless gradient from skin to short hair with no visible lines.
The lever matters too. Most professional clippers have an adjustable lever on the side. When it's open, the blade cuts slightly longer. When it's closed, it cuts shorter. This gives your barber the ability to fine-tune between guard sizes — hitting lengths that fall between the numbered guards.
Half-guards (0.5, 1.5) serve the same purpose. They fill in the gaps between whole numbers, giving your barber more precision when blending. A clean fade is all about those in-between lengths.
This is exactly why fades require real skill. It's not just picking a number — it's knowing how to transition between numbers so smoothly that you can't see where one ends and the next begins. If you want to understand more about the different types, check out our guide on the difference between tapers and fades.
Common Guard Combinations
Not sure what to ask for? These are some of the most popular combinations our barbers see every day across all six Sacramento locations.
- "2 on the sides, finger length on top" — The classic. Short, clean sides with enough length on top to style. This is probably the most requested cut in any barbershop.
- "1 to 3 fade" — A versatile mid fade. Short enough to look sharp, long enough to not feel extreme. Great starting point if you're new to fades.
- "0 to 2 skin fade" — Tight and clean. The skin fade starts all the way down to the scalp and blends up. Bold, modern, and low maintenance.
- "3 all around" — Simple, uniform length all over. No fade, no blend. Quick, clean, and easy to maintain between cuts.
- "4 on top, 2 on sides" — A bit more length on top with a defined contrast on the sides. Works well for thicker hair.
Not sure which combination is right for you? Bring a photo. Your barber can reverse-engineer the guard numbers from any picture. We wrote a whole guide on how to describe the haircut you want if you need more help with that conversation.
A Few Things Worth Knowing
Before you walk in and start rattling off numbers, keep these in mind:
Guards measure hair left, not hair removed. A number 2 guard means 1/4 inch of hair stays on your head. It doesn't mean 2 inches get cut off.
"No guard" is not the same as a razor shave. Clippers with no guard leave very short stubble. A razor shave takes it all the way to smooth skin. They look similar from a distance, but they feel very different.
Guard lengths can vary slightly between brands. A number 3 on one clipper might be a hair longer or shorter than a number 3 on another. The differences are small, but they exist. Your barber knows their tools — trust the process.
Guards are a starting point, not the whole conversation. Telling your barber "give me a 2" is helpful, but the best cuts come from a real conversation about what you want. Guard numbers handle the sides and back. The top, the shape, the texture — that all comes from talking it through. Check out our tips on how to talk to your barber to get the most out of every visit.
Save This Chart
Here's what we'd suggest: next time you get a cut you love, ask your barber what guard numbers they used. Write it down in your phone. That way, even if you visit a different location or sit in a different chair, you have a starting point.
Photos are still the single best way to communicate what you want. But pairing a photo with "I usually get a 1 to 3 fade" gives your barber a head start — and that means a better cut, faster.
Ready to Put This Knowledge to Use?
Now you speak the language. Next time you're in the chair at any of our six Sacramento locations, try asking for a specific guard number and see how it feels to actually know what you're requesting.
54+ barbers. Six locations across Sacramento, Fair Oaks, Granite Bay, and Elk Grove. Every one of them knows their way around a set of clippers.
