How to Describe the Haircut You Want
You sit down in the chair. The cape goes on. Your barber asks, "So what are we doing today?"
And you say: "Just clean it up."
Here's the thing — "clean it up" means something different to every single person. To one guy, it means trim half an inch off the top and tighten the sides. To another, it means a full reset. Your barber isn't a mind reader. They're skilled, they're experienced, and they genuinely want to give you a cut you're going to love. But they need something to work with.
The good news? You don't need to walk in sounding like a licensed cosmetologist. You just need a handful of terms and a general sense of what you want. That's it. The rest is a conversation between you and your barber.
Let's give you the vocabulary.
Describing Length on Top
The top of your head is where most of the style happens, so start here. There are a few ways to communicate what you want:
By Inches
The most direct approach. "Leave about two inches on top" or "Take it down to an inch." If you're not sure what that looks like, hold your fingers apart to approximate — your barber will confirm before they cut.
By Finger Reference
You'll see barbers do this all the time. They'll hold a section of hair between their fingers and ask, "About this much?" You can do the same. Pinch a section of your hair and say, "About this length."
Relative to What You Have
If you're not starting from scratch, you can describe what to change. "Take off about half an inch." "Leave it the same length on top." "A little shorter than last time." This works especially well when you're maintaining a style you already like.
By Style
Sometimes the easiest way is to describe what you want the hair to do. "Long enough to part to the side." "Short enough to stand up on its own." "I want to be able to slick it back." This gives your barber a functional goal, and they'll figure out the right length to get there.
Describing the Sides and Back
This is where most of the technical language comes in — and where most miscommunication happens. Here's how to be clear.
Clipper Guard Numbers
Barbers use numbered clipper guards to control length. The higher the number, the longer the hair. Here's a quick reference:
| Guard | Length | What It Looks Like |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | ~1/16" | Nearly bald, just stubble |
| 1 | 1/8" | Very short, scalp visible |
| 2 | 1/4" | Short, minimal scalp show |
| 3 | 3/8" | Medium-short, popular choice |
| 4 | 1/2" | Medium, fuller look |
| 5+ | 5/8"+ | Longer clipper lengths |
Don't worry about memorizing all of this. If you know you liked a "2 on the sides" last time, just say that. For a deeper breakdown, check out our complete clipper guard guide.
Fade vs. Taper
These two terms get mixed up constantly, but the difference matters.
A taper gradually decreases in length but never goes down to skin. It's subtle, conservative, and grows out gracefully. Great for professional settings.
A fade blends all the way down to skin. It's sharper, higher contrast, and more modern — but it needs more frequent maintenance to stay crisp.
Both involve blending. The question is how far down you want to go. We break this down fully in our taper vs. fade guide.
How High
Once you decide between a fade and a taper, the next question is where it starts. Low, mid, or high.
- Low: Starts just above the ear. Subtle, versatile, works with almost everything.
- Mid: Starts around the temple. Balanced contrast. The most popular choice.
- High: Starts well above the temple. Bold, dramatic, maximum contrast.
The easiest way to communicate this? Point to your head. Seriously. Put your finger where you want the fade or taper to start and say, "Fade up to about here." Your barber will take it from there.
Describing the Neckline
The neckline is one of those details most guys never think about — until it's wrong. There are three main options:
Tapered
The hair gradually fades into the skin at the neckline, creating a soft, natural finish. This is the most common choice and the easiest to maintain because it grows out evenly. If you're not sure what you want, this is a safe bet.
Blocked
A straight, squared-off line across the back of the neck. It's clean and sharp when it's fresh, but it requires more upkeep. As your hair grows, that hard line starts to look uneven fast. Best if you're coming in every two to three weeks.
Rounded
A soft curve that follows the natural shape of your hairline. It's a middle ground — more defined than a taper but less severe than a block. Clean and understated.
Tell your barber which one you want. If you don't say anything, most barbers will default to a taper because it's the most forgiving.
Describing Sideburns
Sideburns might seem minor, but they frame your face. Here's how to talk about them:
- Pointed: Angled downward to a natural or sharp point. Classic and clean.
- Squared: Cut straight across at the bottom. A bit more structured.
- Natural: Your barber follows your existing sideburn shape and just cleans it up.
For length, use your ear as a landmark. "Keep them at mid-ear." "Take them up to the top of the ear." "I like them a little longer — bottom of the ear." Simple and clear.
Describing Texture and Finish
This is the part that separates a good haircut from one that actually looks like you. Texture is about how the hair moves and sits once it's cut.
Textured
Choppy, piece-y, with natural movement. The barber uses point cutting or texturizing shears to remove weight and create dimension. This is the go-to for a modern, lived-in look. If you want your hair to look like you just ran your hand through it and it landed perfectly — ask for texture.
Blunt
Even, solid lines. Every strand is cut to the same length in each section. This creates a fuller, denser look. Classic and strong. Think of a clean, traditional side part or a solid crop.
Layered
Different lengths are cut throughout to create volume and shape. This is especially useful if you have thick hair that tends to puff out — layers let it fall more naturally. It's also great for longer styles that need movement without looking heavy.
Thinned Out
Your barber removes bulk without taking off length. If your hair is thick and tends to get mushroom-shaped between cuts, thinning it out helps it lay flat and move better. Just say, "Can you thin it out a bit?" or "Take some weight out."
Common Haircut Terms Cheat Sheet
Here's a quick-reference glossary. Bookmark this one.
Blended vs. Disconnected Blended means the lengths transition smoothly from one area to the next. Disconnected means there's a sharp, intentional contrast — like long on top with very short sides and no gradual blend between them.
Tapered vs. Faded Taper doesn't go to skin. Fade does. Both are gradual blends — the difference is the endpoint. More on this in our full breakdown.
Undercut The sides and back are cut very short (often clipper-short), while the top stays long. There's little to no blending between the two. It's a bold, high-contrast style.
Hard Part vs. Natural Part A hard part is shaved in with a razor or trimmer — a visible line in the hair. A natural part is just where your hair naturally falls when you comb it to one side.
Lineup / Edge Up Your barber uses a trimmer to create sharp, defined lines along your forehead, temples, and sideburns. It gives a fresh, clean-cut look. Some guys come in just for a lineup between full haircuts.
Skin Fade A fade that goes all the way down to bare skin. High contrast, very clean, very modern.
Shadow Fade A fade that goes very short but not completely to skin — you can still see a "shadow" of hair. Slightly softer than a skin fade.
Burst Fade A fade that radiates outward around the ear in a semicircle. Works especially well with curly and textured hair or longer styles on top.
Drop Fade A fade that "drops" down behind the ear, following the curve of the head rather than cutting straight across. Modern, natural-looking.
Using Photos Effectively
Words are great. Photos are better. Or better yet — use both.
Find the Right Photos
Look for photos of guys with similar hair texture and thickness to yours. A photo of a guy with thick, straight hair won't translate perfectly if you've got fine, wavy hair. Your barber can adapt, but starting with a realistic reference makes the conversation faster.
Show Multiple Angles
One photo from the front tells your barber about the style. A photo from the side shows the fade height and blend. A photo from the back shows the neckline. If you can find two or three angles of the same cut, you're giving your barber everything they need.
Point to Specific Elements
Don't just hand your phone over and say, "Like this." Point to what you actually like. "I like how short the sides are here." "I want this much length on top." "This is the kind of fade I'm going for." It's possible to take pieces from different photos, too.
Be Open to Your Barber's Input
A great barber will tell you honestly if something won't work with your hair type, face shape, or growth pattern. That's not them saying no — that's them steering you toward something that's going to look even better on you. Trust that input.
Questions to Ask Your Barber
Your barber is the expert. Use them. Here are four questions that will always get you a better result:
"What would you recommend for my hair type?" Barbers work with every texture, density, and growth pattern imaginable. They know what works. If you're unsure, this one question can change everything.
"How will this grow out?" Some styles look incredible at week one and rough by week three. Others age gracefully. Knowing what to expect helps you plan your schedule and your maintenance.
"How often should I come back for this style?" Tight fades might need attention every two weeks. A classic taper might last four to six. Ask, and you'll know exactly when to book your next appointment.
"What products should I use?" The right product is half the battle. Your barber can recommend exactly what to use based on your hair type and the style you're going for — and show you how to apply it before you leave the chair.
For more on getting the most out of your barbershop experience, read our guide on how to talk to your barber.
Your Barber Is on Your Team
Here's the bottom line: the more specific you are, the better your cut. But you don't have to walk in with a script. You don't need to memorize every term on this page. Start with the basics — what you want on top, what you want on the sides, and a photo or two. Your barber will ask the right questions to fill in the gaps.
That's what they do. Every cut is a collaboration. And at Sacred Barbers, with 54+ independent artists across six Sacramento locations, you've got someone who's ready to listen, advise, and deliver.
So next time you sit down in the chair, skip "just clean it up." Tell them what you actually want. You'll be glad you did.
